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Original Post
The original content for this post is below, followed by a major addition we made to update new research and learnings we have come across to help dog owners address this issue.
For most of us, it’s hard to understand why dogs would eat things like rocks, socks or other non-food items. Yet many dogs do. The technical term is PICA. For some, it can result in a hefty vet bill when something dangerous is ingested and needs to be surgically removed.
In evaluating the behavior, we look at what is being eaten and under what circumstances. If the dog is eating rocks or dirt, it is possible the dog is looking to fulfill a nutritional deficiency. A visit to your vet might be worthwhile as well as evaluating your food choices.
If your dog is eating non-food items, look at how the behavior developed and when it’s happening. For example, a dog might start out by finding and playing with or chewing socks, pillows, and anything else around home that looks fun. For some dogs, it is merely an attempt to explore their world – which dogs do primarily through their noses and their mouths. Looking to have some fun or alleviate boredom is a common issue. Some dogs express this through chewing. Some dogs will chew lots of things but not ingest. Others will ingest the items they chew.
In other cases, the dogs end up swallowing items in an attempt to maintain possession if people are constantly taking things away. The attempt to maintain control can display itself in a game of keep away or tug of war. In other dogs, resource guarding will develop and a dog might growl, snap or even bite. And for some dogs, they will swallow the item to prevent someone from taking it away.
One client has a dog who was swallowing socks. While it most likely started out as something fun to play with and chew, she began swallowing them in an effort to keep them from being taken away. The original behavior probably started due to a bit of boredom, but it turned into a resource guarding issue being expressed by swallowing the item.
Another client has a dog who is eating rocks. In our discussion, we determined the rock eating appears to be due primarily to boredom. The dog is looking for something to do, and most likely started out playing with the rocks, but now eats them. In this case, I think resource guarding also plays a part. This dog also has some food aggression issues, so resource guarding rocks is certainly a possibility.
In the case of both clients mentioned above, the approach is similar. First, prevention. Don’t allow the dogs to practice the unwanted (and dangerous) behavior while we’re working to change it.
Next, we work very hard on teaching a reliable “drop it” and “leave it”. Anytime I am working with a client on “drop it” or “leave it” I want to make sure we are making it fun and rewarding for the dog, but it is particularly important in these cases. If there is an element of possessiveness, we need to be careful about perpetuating this perception that we are always taking things away and never giving anything back. Providing worthwhile rewards in exchange for leaving or dropping the items they have is essential. Sounding like you are having fun and playing a game, not scolding or punishing the dog, is also necessary.
In addition, we work at replacing these behaviors with more constructive behaviors. If the dogs are getting enough physical exercise and mental stimulation in more constructive ways, they will begin to forget about eating non-food items. Some of these issues are easily resolved, while others will take quite a bit of work. But working to resolve these issues could save the lives of these dogs, so it’s well worth putting in the effort.
Otherwise, eating a little grass and dirt and a stick here and there perhaps isn’t such a bad thing after all.
Updated Content
The content below includes a significant addition to the original post above.
Since we get a lot of traffic and comments to this post, we wanted to update it with research coupled with many things we have learned about dog health, and provide a roadmap for helping dog owners find and treat the root causes for why their dog may be engaging in this activity.
In medical terminology, the two broad areas we want to consider for issues related to this article are:
- PICA, which is the persistent craving and compulsive eating of nonfood substances;
- Coprophagia, which is the eating and ingesting of feces.
Coprophagia may actually be less of an issue than PICA, which we will explain later.
We will start by saying that this may not be an easy issue to solve for many dog owners. As we recommend in our summary, it can take persistent trial and error by the dog owner to start, followed by working with a dog health care practitioner if the issue is still not resolved.
The reason why this may be a difficult issue to solve is because it is merely the symptom manifesting from a deeper problem that could be coming from one or a number of different areas in a dog’s body. It is not something relatively simple like your dog limping on a back leg, which is generally confined to an issues in the foot, leg or back.
That said, let’s dive in.
Dog Log
If your dog engages on a persistent basis the behavior associated with PICA and coprophagia, then you will want to start a dog log to so you can identify where it is occurring, when it is occurring and what else is going on around the dog when it is happening.
A dog log is critically important because you can record details that you would normally forget. But more importantly, the recording of these details will help you be more thorough in documenting the where/when/what else details.
Writing down or typing in the details will also help you become more aware of circumstances that might cause them so that you will be more proactive about keeping them from happening.
The dog log will also help you, through trial and error, to see if and how the problem changes as you do things to help stop it.
We keep our own health log for our dogs that varies in how often we post to it.
For things like vet visits, tests performed, changes in diet, physical issues that might come up (like limps, skin scratches or knicks, etc), we record.
We might get more frequent and specific if there is a specific health issue we are trying to fix. But if not, then we keep it general and high level.
Even general or high level helps us when we go to the vet for an annual checkup. This information is readily available for us to review with our vet.
But for an issue like PICA, you will want to be very detailed.
We keep ours in Google Docs because we can share it amongst the family members to maintain it and it works across mobile devices as well as notebooks and PC. The convenience of being able to use any device to add to it and that everyone can use at anytime makes it a no-brainer.
We have a template dog log we created specifically around documenting the circumstances around PICA, here. You can save that to your own google account or download it for use in other applications, or you can print it out and use it that way. You can download it at the end of this article.
After you have a dog log in place, let's give you a framework to think about possibly solving this issue for your dog.
The Functional Medicine Approach To Health
We already said that PICA is potentially a difficult issue to solve because it is merely the symptom manifesting from a deeper problem that could be coming from one or a number of different areas in a dog’s body. It is not something relatively simple like your dog limping on a back leg, which is generally confined to an issues in the foot, leg or back.
As a result, we need a framework to help solve this issue.
Ed adapted this framework to fix his own chronic health issues. It is still relatively new but being used in human health by more progressive health care practitioners.
It is something you can use not just for your dog but your own health and the health of your family members. We are using it to help identify any health issues with our own dogs and to help keep them healthy. It is a very powerful and useful framework.
Let’s start from the top white boxes and work across.
All health issues can manifest as a result of any one of these 5 areas:
- Consummables: what we eat is being recognized as the biggest effect on our health, and health conditions and diseases mostly come as a result of the consummables we put into our bodies.
- Environmental: the chemicals we breathe or put on our bodies through cosmetics, and the electromagnetic radiation we get exposed to through airplane travel, WIFI, mobile phone signals, microwaves for cooking, bluetooth, IoT devices, etc.
- Pathogens: any virus or bacteria that takes up residence in our bodies. It can include beneficial bacteria that overgrows to levels where it is no longer beneficial.
- The brain is its own area because effects from the previous three areas can affect the brain and diminish its function, and even if issues are fixed in the other three areas, the brain can remain in a compromised state. This area would also include psychological issues, which as we are learning in humans, is enormously affected by what goes on in the above three areas.
- The last area is physiology. Physical imperfections, like a defective heart valve, just plain wear and tear on the joints or colds, flues, or other seasonal sicknesses. Health issues that can be readily seen or identified are lumped into this category.
And that is it. You can classify any condition or disease or health issue that manifests from any one of these five areas. It is not any more complicated than that.
Next let's discuss the colored boxes, working from the bottom, up.
- All health issues end in symptoms that are seen and/or felt.
- Before that is a diagnosed disease or condition.
- And, before that is the pathology, or underlying mechanisms causing the disease or condition. This box is where testing is done, if possible, that would then lead to a disease or condition diagnosis.
- And before that is epigenetic factors that cause the pathology. Epigenetics is the environmental effects on DNA that cause the DNA to express itself in a certain way. Epigenetics is our lifestyle, what we do, how we live, what we put in, on and to which we subject our bodies. In humans, it is estimated that 90% of the cause of health disease and conditions is due to epigenetics.
- And finally, before that is genetic factors that predispose one to a specific pathology.
In a nutshell, all you are doing is working backwards from what is seen or felt till you get to the root cause of the health issue or symptom so that you know how to properly treat it.
Sounds easy and logical, but western medicine is not taught this way. In our experience, with all the human and veterinary doctors we have seen over the years, it does not go beyond pathology to treating health. Even alternative pet medical providers do not use this approach.
They will throw supplements, prescription drugs, procedures or operations to treat the issues and symptoms, but they rarely ask what is the root cause of these issues or symptoms.
Without finding out the root cause in epigenetic or genetics, you may never fix the issue, and it keeps reoccurring or manifests elsewhere as other conditions or diseases.
Many times health issues have nothing to do with genetics, but epigenetics. If you are a smoker, then you are inflicting epigenetic effects on your lungs that increase the chances for the cancer genes to take hold.
But if you are predisposed to lung cancer already due to a certain genetic makeup, then you will have increased chances to lung cancer if you smoke.
But some people smoke all their lives and live to old age without lung cancer. It is possible these people have a genetic makeup that decreases their chances for contracting lung cancer.
Getting to the root cause of health issues through epigenetic and genetic factors will help you understand and treat the underlying causes. Do as much as you can to understand your genetics and how they are influenced by epigenetics, and if you adjust your lifestyle accordingly, then you may have a dramatically improved chance for better health.
Now, with all that said, medical research and knowledge is far more advanced in humans than it is in dogs. The study of epigenetics and genetics in humans is still very early but has already shown huge benefits.
But genetic testing it is still very early in pets. There are some general rules of thumb for each breed that most veterinary doctors can help you with, but it gets fuzzy after that if you want to do specific testing for your dog. As we learn more in working with our pet health practitioners and what we read and learn about in the field of pet health, we will do our best to report here on our website and via our subscriber emails.
Using the Functional Medicine Framework to Help Solve PICA and Coprophagia
Let's use the Framework to help understand and offer solutions to this issue. We will discuss what you can do on your own and when you may need the help from a pet health practitioner.
Consummables
This area is proving to be the biggest determining factor in health. And fortunately, it is an area that we may be able to do on our own without the need for a pet health practitioner. As a result, start here to see if you can fix PICA/Coprophagia issues.
We recommend you use the following scale, which ranks dog food in order from healthiest to least or unhealthy. Move your dog up levels as far as you can to the top level to improve their diet to see if that solves the issue. This scale is from our resource guide, How to Make Healthy Food Choices For Your Dog, a 40-page document that we researched, wrote and keep updated about how to make healthy food choices for your dog. We also include the text directly from the resource guide adding some explanations about the items in this scale.
HOW TO RANK DOG FOOD OPTIONS, CATEGORIZED FROM HIGHEST TO LOWEST QUALITY
The best foods choices to feed your dog are ordered as follows. We will provide additional explanation about these food categories after this list.
However, this list is only as good as the ingredients used. For example, if you purchase canned dog food with corn or soy in it, but purchase a dry dog food product with neither, then the dry dog food might be a better choice.
Homemade raw is the best diet for our dogs, but only if you are careful to give them the appropriate percentages of ingredients and supplements so that they eat balanced meals. Dogs that are sick or with compromised health may do better with cooked food.
Irradiation is a process whereby food is subjected to ionizing radiation to attack bacteria by breaking chemical bonds in molecules that are vital for cell growth. It does not result in radioactive food, but it does increase the free radicals and has shown to reduce nutritional values of food in the same way that cooking does.
HPP is a process whereby food is subjected to intense pressure, which kills pathogens. But HPP also breaks apart protein just like cooking, so in our opinion, based on the information we have seen about HPP, we don’t think there is much difference between food treated with HPP and cooked food.
You will have to contact manufacturers to find out if they use HPP. Some provide that information on their website, but many don’t.
If they do not use HPP, you should ask what they use to control pathogens. By law, dog food manufacturers are required to produce product free of pathogens, unlike human food. They are doing something to control pathogens, so you should ask and find out to be sure you are comfortable with their process.
Another process that at least one manufacturer we know of uses is electrolyzed water, a relatively new process in the U.S. that uses a special water whose chemical composition has been changed through the use of electricity. The ingredients are soaked in this water to eliminate pathogens. This seems like a viable solution to us, but we have not seen studies comparing electrolyzed food to raw food, so we are not 100% sure.
But raw meats, especially chicken, may naturally contain the salmonella pathogen. And that is normally not a problem for humans because we cook our meat, and it is also normally not a problem for healthy dogs because they can digest salmonella. So if you purchase raw dog food with chicken, then it has to be processed somehow to remove the salmonella, which means that whatever process the company uses, the end product is not as healthy. You need to find out what that company is doing.
It is not recommended to feed kibble with raw in the same meal because raw digests faster than kibble. The end result will be kibble in the digestive track that is fermenting and could be causing gas. Try feeding kibble in one meal and raw in another.
Freeze dried food is very convenient, but it’s shelf-stability may be far less than indicated by best-use-by dates on packaging. Studies show that fats can oxidize quickly, even if there are preservatives in the product. It requires a great deal of energy to produce, which increases costs and carbon footprint. But as solar energy becomes more widespread, those costs will go down and the carbon footprint will be much less.
While freeze dried weighs a lot less to transport, with reduced shipping costs, if you buy locally produced dog food from small retailers, there really is not much, if any savings on logistics costs. Sure, if you are shipping freeze dried halfway across the country, then there are some savings in logistics costs, but does it outweigh the energy cost to produce? We don’t know. Regardless, just try to buy from local or regional dog food companies to reduce the carbon footprint to get food to you.
Dry kibble is the predominant way people feed their dogs and is among the worst choices. Please see “Image 1: Why dry kibble is bad for dogs”, posted earlier in this resource guide.
Digestibility
The term digestibility coefficient refers to the percentage of a dog food that the dog absorbs into his or her body during the process of digestion.
As a rule of thumb, dry dog foods with digestibility value of 75% or less will be of very poor quality, those with values between 75 and 82 percent are classified as moderate in quality, and foods with digestibility values that are higher than 82% are of high quality.
Dog food companies are not required to obtain or report digestibility and may not disclose it even if asked. But you should ask anyway and if you do feed dry dog foods, try to feed ones with higher digestibility ratings.
We know that you want the best for your dog but that may get too cost prohibitive when you are talking raw, especially when you look for quality ingredients like at the level that we do for our dogs and in our dog food products that we sell.
Just do the best you can. If all you can afford is dry kibble, then try to get the highest quality you can find, which we show you how in our resource guide.
If you want to incorporate some raw, fresh foods into your kibble diet, then check out this post on The Food Stack For Dogs, which is what we do. Pay close attention to adding in some home made or very high quality plain goats-milk yogurt to help their digestive systems, which we talk about in what we do for our dogs.
And don't just throw supplements at the problem. As we mentioned, that is what conventional medicine does and that rarely solves the problem. Dogs were made to extract all the nutrients they need from food. You should only feed supplements if you cannot adjust their diet, if you can only afford to feed dry kibble, if they have some genetic predisposition that can only be remedied with supplements, or you have done everything you and your health practitioner can to try and diagnose the epigenetic and/or genetic factors and you still cannot find the source of the problem.
There is testing you can do to determine which foods your dog has an immune response. This might help, but it can be misleading because in humans, the health of the gut greatly influences our immune response to foods. If you have a healthy gut with good levels of beneficial bacteria, you can tolerate a lot more than if you do not. The same may be true for dogs. That is why it is better to first get your dog on the healthiest diet you can, then work on individual food testing through trial and error.
What if higher quality food does not help?
If moving your dog up the quality scale does not help, then you may need to look specifically at which food ingredients cause an immune or allergic response. In this case, you are actually getting more at potential epigenetic and genetic causes for your pet's issues, but you can still do this on your own by elimination and substitution.
Protein/Meats
Make sure you feed your dog meat-based proteins, not vegetable. Our read of research tells us that vegetable-based protein does not work for dogs.
Many dogs have issues with poultry (chicken, turkey, duck), so try eliminating them. Or, dogs could have issues with beef, or all red meat, or maybe it is fish. You won't know until you start eliminating and substituting.
It could be dairy. While we see little dairy in dog food products, if you feed yogurt for probiotic supplementation, that could be an issue. Try goats-milk yogurt, which is what we feed.
Carbohydrates
All grains and legumes/beans can be problematic so eliminate these right off the bat. Substitute with more nutrient dense vegetables. You can go off our our list in our post on The Food Stack For Dogs.
Fats
If you are eliminating and substituting meats, then make sure you do the same for fats. The only external source of fat that is added to dog diets might be coconut or olive oil or flax seeds/oil. Your dog may have issues with seeds and nuts, so coconut oil and flax seeds/oil may need to be eliminated.
Environmental
At the same time that you are working on foods, make sure you try and address environmental toxins that may be poisoning your dog. Dogs, just like humans, are designed to filter out a certain level of toxins. But when exposure increases beyond the body's ability to detoxify, then accumulation occurs, which can lead to health diseases and conditions.
It is possible that if your dog is suffering from food issues, they could go away if you address toxicity from the environment.
The obvious environmental hazards come from a dog being lower to the ground than humans and spending a lot of time sniffing, licking and sitting on the ground. Look at cleaning supplies and laws/garden pesticides.
If you can, try to go greener in your choice of materials used in construction projects in your house.
For cleaning, we stick mostly with vinegar and use Nature's Miracle, an enzymatic cleaner.
Look at how much access they have to synthetic materials via collars, water and food bowls, toys and sleeping beds.
Try to limit the use of plastic, especially with food.
While limiting the use of synthetics is almost impossible for toys, if you can at least do it for their eating and drinking bowls, then that is another way to reduce exposure. We use these bowls because they have rubber on the bottom to reduce slippage and reduce noise.
Unlikely you will completely eliminate exposure to environmental toxins, but reducing exposure to them will allow your dog to hopefully keep up with detoxification on their own.
Look at radio frequency radiation emitted from all the wireless devices we have. They are proving to be a problem for some humans and so they could be problematic for our pets. While it may be difficult to remove WIFI and mobile phones from our lives, try to at least shut off at night anything that emits or receives an RF signal. That includes WIFI, mobile phones, bluetooth devices, and any other internet enabled devices like light switches or security cams. That is what we do.
Electromagnetic radiation can also get emitted from the electrical in our homes. We use this Steterizer meter to test each plug and if the level is above 50, then we plugin in these Greenwave Dirty Electricity Filters.
And we retest our plugs every six months with the Steterizer filter and readjust the placement of the Greenwave filters.
Retesting is necessary because what we plug in to our wall outlets changes with the addition or subtraction of appliances and electronics, which can change the dynamics of the electricity running through the house.
Pathogens
A pathogen could be causing nutritional imbalances that could be affecting your dog and causing or contributing to PICA and/or Coprophagia. It may be a good idea while you are working on the consummables and reducing toxicity in your dogs environment to have your health care practitioner perform some standard tests to rule these out.
Pathogens can take hold if there are nutritional issues going on from food or an immune system that is under strain from environmental toxins.
Brain
Physical Activity
Is your dog getting enough physical activity? They may be bored and picking up other things and eating them gives them something to do.
We have an infographic and article on the benefits of dog sports for non-competitors.
Mental Activity
Is your dog getting enough mental activity? Mental stimulation is just as important as physical. Dogs that get plenty of physical activity but little mental may still be bored and looking for something to do.
You can teach your dog the brain workouts listed in this infographic on your own or find dog training classes. Training your dog gives them mental stimulation. Many people go through one or two dog training classes and that is it for the remainder of their dog's life.
But many trainers like us offer a wide variety of classes and we have many clients who consistently take classes not just to keep up with training, but to always be teaching their dogs something new.
If you need some quick tips on how to incorporate quickie training sessions into your dog’s routine, please see this post.
Consider giving your dog more jobs to do, as we profile in this post.
Use interactive toys to feed your dog meals and treats, which makes them work for their food, both physically and mentally. We have a wide variety of toys that we have collected over the years, but here is a list of some of our favorites that we use all the time:
Kong toys. There are many different versions that you can fill with food or treats to keep your dog occupied. We user ours constantly, especially with our Snack Stuffer product.
Twist ‘n Treat Dog Toy. This toy makes it easy to put treats in and adjust how difficult you want to make it for your dog to remove the treats.
When you purchase, try to stick with toys in the range of yellows, blues, violets, and grays, which we explain in this post.
If you are looking for more resources to help with mental activity and training, we recommend the following:
JUVENILE DELINQUENT DOGS: The Complete Guide to Saving Your Sanity and Successfully Living with Your Adolescent Dog. This is our own book that we wrote that will help you with an adolescent or energetic dog.
Other mental issues
Other issues causing PICA or Coprophagia can include:
- Separation anxiety;
- Resource guarding;
- Competition for resources from other dogs present in the household;
- Not getting enough attention from you;
- Inconsistency in daily routines, which can cause stress.
Physiology
Issues related to physiology are usually the easiest for health practitioners to find because they are physical differences that can be directly seen, either through physical inspection or medical scanning technology.
If your efforts in changing foods, limiting environmental toxins, checking for pathogens and working on the various brain related issues we talked about above are not working, then deeper medical testing may be required.
Again, if medical tests reveal something, you need to dig deeper to figure out why. If your dog has thyroid problems, for example, this issue can be caused by food, environmental or pathogen issues. Don't just settle for medication. Medication might be good to temporarily help out, but don't rely on it permanently unless you know what is causing the thyroid problems and you have no other way to fix them other than medication.
The only study we could find with regards to PICA is that it is associated with low hemoglobin (Hb), hematocrit (Hct), or plasma zinc (Zn) concentrations. If that is the case with your dog, supplementation in the short-term to get these values back in line might really help, but you have to ask why they are off to begin with. Look at epigenetic and genetic factors, if you can.
Might Coprophagia be normal for dogs?
Coprophagia may actually be related to a dog's need to help balance the bacteria in its gut. We have no evidence or studies behind this, but have read anecdotally that this may be the case.
We regularly see our dogs eating feces from deer, bunnies or other animals. They do not do it everyday and do not seem to be obsessed about it, so we do not worry too much about it.
Final Words
PICA and Coprophagia can be tough issues to resolve. But think about solving them in a structured way using a dog log to record your observations and the Functional Medicine Framework to help guide. You may still have a lot of work ahead of you but at least you have some tools and a plan to help walk you through.
Dog Log Template Download
We have embedded it below so you can see it, but you can click this link to open it in a new tab. It is a Google Doc that you can save to your Google Drive or download in a Microsoft Word or PDF format.
Our goal is to positively impact the lives of as many dogs and their families as we can, in part through our extensive library of video, infographics and text articles. |
I had the same exact problem with my rescue BH (Basset Hound). He was 9 months at the time and would shred blankets, balls like there’s no tomorrow. He had a lot of behavioral issues due to his past owner. I did some research and found out that BHs can be very destructive and dangerous if their physical and mental needs aren’t met. I began to take my dog to a giant empty field near my apartment and tire him out. 30 min agility + walk-in morning and 30 min at night eliminated 90% of his behavioral issues. That also help build a better relationship with him and he began to trust and obey a lot more. If I caught him chewing the blanket id say leave it (teaching your dog to leave it is a must it will come in handy in a lot of situations) and when he lets go of it did give him a kong or favorite toy.
Yes, an adolescent dog must have their needs met! Many of the behavior problems that I see in my private training practice can be reduced significantly if we are meeting their needs both physically and mentally. We usually still have some other work to do, but all the behavior modification in the world won’t solve the problem alone if we are not meeting their needs. I am glad your Bassett Hound responded well!
Wow, I never new eating socks was such a thing, but I now have my first dog who does this. She is a one year old Golden Mountain Doodle. She has eaten a lot of socks. Some, she has vomited, and others she has passed, but they all worry me as I understand the risk to her safety. We’ve changed our ways to keep our bedrooms and bathrooms closed off to her, and also to be on top of keeping socks hidden from her in the main living areas. She still manages, very occasionally, to find a sock. Since she knows I will take socks away from her, when she sees me coming, she plays keep away, swallowing the sock whole as fast as she can gobble it down. My kitchen and living room are connected by two doorways, so she can literally run in a circle to escape me. After reading all of your advice to others posting here, I understand that she is probably swallowing the socks in a hurry to prevent me from taking them. I can also see that I may have exacerbated this behavior by taking sooooooooo many things away from her without giving her something exciting in return. I never thought about this before. She is a pup who needs something taken out of her mouth multiple times every day. She is very gifted at finding the wrong things to chew on. My question is this. How can I turn this around? Do I give her a small food treat every time I take something away from her? She is smart, so I don’t want to teach her to earn food treats by picking up the wrong things. I’m not sure a toy is an exciting solution since she could have picked up the toy in the first place. Maybe her toys are too limited. She has plenty, but they are all similar, since they have to be tough to survive her chewing. She can’t be allowed any fabric toys or balls. She really loves rope toys, but she goes through them pretty quickly, so I have to watch her closely to throw those out before they become dangerous to her. We have yet to allow her any freedom in the house when we are not home, as she would get in a lot of trouble. When we are home, she has chewed and destroyed some of the woodworking, carpeting, computer cords, eyeglasses, pens, shoes, etc. Amazingly, she didn’t even give a second look at the Christmas tree, thankfully. I will work on strong leave-it and drop-it commands as you suggested in other posts. Thank you!
Hi Susan! We’re lucky if we can go through our lives with dogs who never swallows inappropriate and dangerous stuff – like socks! But some of us are not that lucky and it makes life more challenging. I would start with lower value items if you can – either things like toys that she is allowed to have or with larger objects that she cannot swallow. And yes, trade with anything that is high enough value that she is willing to trade. That might mean high value treats for now, and that’s ok! At this point, do not worry about teaching her to pick up stuff just to get treats. Even if she does, as long as she brings it to you for a treat, that’s far better and safer than swallowing it! If you can convince her that no matter what she picks up, you have something better, that’s a good problem to have currently. At worst, you then have a dog who has a great Fetch behavior! I would provide lots of value for giving up anything she has. Sometimes things she is not allowed and sometimes things she is allowed – but she gets those allowed items back after you give her your trade item. So she gets an added bonus. Good luck!
Thank you! That makes sense. I appreciate your advice. I’m glad I came across this page!
My goldendoodle is coming up on his 2 year birthday this month. Ever since he was a puppy, he has had an issue with finding and swallowing socks. We have completely changed our lifestyle to having all laundry behind closed doors and completely out of sight/reach from our dog. We have 2 other roommates who occasionally get lazy or forget and leave their bedroom door open (they always have their laundry laying around their rooms). Our dog will never show any interest in a sock when someone is nearby or watching him but if no one is watching, it turns into a feeding frenzy on socks. He plays with his food ball and kong toys, he is exercised daily, plays with his puppy friends every day, and eats Taste of the Wild dog food. We don’t know what to do because we cannot correct his behavior since no one ever witnesses or catches him in the act of swallowing socks. He makes himself VERY sick and it makes us so worried!
Hi Anna, it’s definitely more of a challenge when they ONLY do something when you are not nearby! Sometimes that means we have to get a bit more creative in our training to help them understand to Leave It even when no one is there to remind them. And as you know, swallowing socks is a very dangerous habit. And can get very expensive with vet bills too. I would suggest going back and working on a very strong Leave It cue and work up to being able to use it when it appears to your dog that you are not there to see it, but you have some way (via video cameras, etc.) to actually see what your dog is doing. Of course, in the early stages you would want to set up safety measures so that even though the sock looks available, he can’t actually get to it to swallow it. You might want to find an experienced positive reinforcement based trainer near you to help you with this!
To all that have posted about this article, we have a major addition to the original article with new research and learnings we have come across to help dog owners address this issue.
I got 5 months old American Pitbull Terrier and he eats everything from rocks up to paper, im trying to adjust his food to fix this but my main problem is that sometimes he gets food agressive, its rare but still an issue, i was having lunch in a restaurant and he had his leash attached to a rock thing next to me, i noticed that he was eating rocks, and as always i reach to him, i take one rock of his mouth and when i try to take the second one he snaps and tried to bite me, its a very rare thing and without warning, at home he never gets to eat unless i tell him to so theres no agression at all. Im thinking this was because he was in a corner and i was moving in on him. Is there anything i can do to stop this behaviour? Or should i not reach and take stuff of his mouth like that ? Thanks you
Hi Brian, food guarding in certain situations only usually indicates either the dog is feeling trapped (you mentioned he was in a corner, so that might be part of the problem) or the dog feels whatever he has is higher value than usual and he’s willing to fight to keep it. Either way, we don’t want him guarding from you! In a setting away from home, he also might have been feeling less comfortable than at home. Here’s how I would have handled that situation: With a young dog still learning the ropes, I would have made sure to have plenty of tasty treats along with us when away from home. When I noticed him eating a rock, I would have taken out one of those tasty treats I brought along and offered a trade for the rock he had. By offering a trade, I can more easily get the item away from him but without any bad feelings toward me on his part. Rather than taking away something of value to him, I offer something of equal or greater value in exchange. Do that a number of times when out and about or when he finds something he thinks is pretty high value and he will happily and willingly trade with you. Then you can start asking for a “Drop it” with just about anything and he will gladly cooperate!
My 7 month old doberman puppy has swallowed about 15 socks to date!! He also like to eating the stuffing from toys and blankets. I have no idea how he finds them as I have resorted to drying them in a closed room as opposed to on the line.
He is on a a mostly raw diet (BIG DOG pet food) and supplemented with a little Holistic Select. He also gets raw meaty bones once a day too, eggs and whole sardines a couple of times a week also, so a diet deficiency is unlikely. I am at my whits end with it. Thankfully, they are always passed through his system but we have countless missing socks!!
Have you tried adjusting the macro nutrient profile? Maybe try a few more dense carbs in place of the meat. Have you tried probiotics or yogurt? Is he getting enough physical but also mental exercise and stimulation? Those would be my suggestions. If Sue has any she will chime in.
Hi Edward,
Thank you for your reply.
The Holistic Select contains prebiotics and probiotics. Perhaps I can add some rice to his meals to bulk it up and see if that helps. He has heaps of energy, its possible his daily walk and play in the backyard are not enough for him.
Thanks for the advice.
Would love some advice. My almost 7 year old rescue St. Berdoodle has been eating socks (and throwing them up) for a few months now. Have had her for a little over 2 years. She eats the children’s socks, she’s tall, so she can get to the counter and oven-eats everything that she can get to including bread, chocolate, etc. she gets fed very well. I’m an experienced dog owner/foster, and I’ve never experienced this before.
Afia, a vet check to ensure good health is never a bad idea in case she feels she is missing something from her diet. However, it sounds like some training is also in order. Teaching a strong LEAVE IT for items on counters, etc. is important. Setting good rules/boundaries around the house so she understands what is off limits to her. IF she scarfs her meals quickly, I would also consider a slow feeder bowl or interactive food dispensing toys to slow down her eating can sometimes help too. Then make sure she is getting enough activity during the day (both physically and mentally) to ensure boredom is not contributing to the issue. Good luck!
Hello. I just adopted a lab/husky/rottweiler/pit mix. He is still a puppy (6 months old), but I am starting to get nervous about his fetish for socks. I brought him to the vet yesterday and they said puppies just eat socks, but he is possessive over socks. I keep my apartment very clean (like magazine ready) and he still manages to find them. It has happened twice in the two weeks that I have had him where he has thrown up a sock and will swallow it whole before I even have a chance to grab it again.
I am currently bringing him on 2-3 walks a day and he plays with the other dog in the home all morning before I go to work. He seems like a very happy pup, but I just don’t know how to fix this problem. I also have him on Purina Beyond Grain Free White Chicken food.
You might try him on a different food. We are currently researching an update to this post and finding that issues like may be strongly related to something missing in the diet. We cannot recommend any dry dog food anymore – see here for why dry kibble is bad for your dog: https://thelightofdog.com/why-dry-kibble-is-bad-for-dogs/ Try your best to get him on a raw diet (not HPP or irradiated) or freeze dried (also not HPP or irradiated).
Addison, Ed replied in regard to diet, but let me also give some tips from a training perspective. First, puppies love to get into stuff! I saw a study somewhere that said the most commonly swallowed household items are socks and underwear. My guess is that those items tend to hold the most odor from their human family, which for some reason appeals to them. So at this stage, definitely keeping those items out of reach is best. BUT also teaching a very solid LEAVE IT to our pups is important. We cover that topic in our Juvenile Delinquent Dogs book or our Online Basic Training Course. Also keep in mind that they sometimes swallow these items as the ultimate way to guard their resource – if they swallow it, you can’t take it away from them. So, teaching our dogs a good DROP IT (drop it is for dogs who already have something in their mouth, leave it is for preventing them from picking it up in the first place) is also important. Don’t focus on taking things AWAY but rather TRADING for something else. We do LOTS of trades when our dogs are puppies so they learn that they get something BETTER when they give up what they have. If we always take away but give nothing in return, we can cause our dogs to get better at guarding things in order to maintain possession. Though resource guarding is not unusual or unnatural, it can be dangerous and we want your pup to learn that guarding items from you is never necessary. Hope that helps!
Hello, I have a 15 week old wirehaired pointing griffon. She is playing with the rocks (in her mouth and hasn’t swollen one) in my back yard that is impossible to avoid. She is also digging through the rocks and getting ahold of the grey flooring that prevents weeds from growing in the rocked areas. She is eating the grey felt material ( and swollowed a sock that I got her to throw up). I thinking she is doing this because she is bored yet we go for walks every day and train every day in the park across the street from my house. Im looking into getting her a toy that despenses food or somthing to keep her more occupied but was curious if there were other reasonings behind these behaviors? Im changing her diet from Purina Savor to Purina Focus. I was feeding her 1.5 cups twice a day and yesterday I moved it up to 2 cups twice a day. Were slowly transitioning to the new food right now so im hoping it may help. Any suggestions to get her to stop digging till I can make a dog run for her? Additionaly, any suggestions to sprays to spray my socks and the rocks to prevent a $4,000-$8,000 trip to the vet? Please let me know if you have any questions and thank you in advance.
You might want to look at a higher quality food for her. That might not be the problem, but it could be and anything you do is just masking the nutritional deficiencies that she might be getting. We can only recommend raw dog food. Dry kibble is the absolute worst for a dog (https://thelightofdog.com/why-dry-kibble-is-bad-for-dogs/) as the latest research and progressive vet docs are discovering (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGiqXnQ8Bzg). But stay away from raw dog food that has been subjected to high pressure processing or irradiation. Those methods make it almost as bad as kibble. You don’t know if a food has been subjected to HPP or irradiation unless you ask the company or if they advertise it. Smaller pet stores that sell raw and are knowledgeable can help you, or just do your research online. Our rawe dog food is the best you can get, but we only sell direct-to-consumer in the Denver-metro area.
Hi Chris, Ed discussed possible nutritional deficiencies in the diet, but I also wanted to respond from the behavioral side of things. Exploration is perfectly normal for puppies – and putting things in their mouths and digging are a part of that. The problematic part is the puppies who decide to eat/swallow the things they are exploring. Boredom can definitely play a part but it’s also normal puppy behavior. The tricky part is keeping them safe if they decide to swallow things – that might mean finding a way to prevent access to dangerous stuff like rocks, socks, etc. I am less concerned if they eat a bit of dirt, leaves, sticks, etc. For puppies (usually up to around 6 months old) we recommend feeding THREE MEALS a day. Because you are feeding dry food that is heavy in carbohydrates, it’s harder to regulate their blood-sugar levels – thus the need for three (or even four) meals per day. And food puzzle toys can sometimes help as well along with other opportunities to utilize energy constructively and opportunities to explore their world safely. Good luck!
I have a 5 month old Rottweiler she is doing great potty training. My only issue so far is her chewing she plays in a yard with my moms dog while I go to work, as soon as I bring her in the house from playing in the yard she eats then passes out from playing all day. While I am home she chews on EVERYTHING from a piece of paper, anything she can get a hold of outside in the yard during the day, to the coffee table, the xbox controller, her outside dog bed, she even electrocuted herself by chewing on the wire to my scentcy while it was plugged in! (It did not even stop her she still shredded the wire) She has bones she has toys plenty of exercise I’m unsure what to do at this point. I have tried to kennel her to stop this but she has been able to scoot and flip/move her kennel. She also poops while in her kennel and howling loudly that the neighbors are complaining. (only during the day she sleeps in it at night just fine) Would it be a good idea to try the muzzle for a short time while she is alone to get her through this chewing stage?
Looks like you have a real challenge on your hands! Most puppies like to chew on things – partly that’s how they explore their world and partly, when they are teething, it feels good. The key is to really manage the environment the best you can to limit their choices while helping them learn what IS appropriate to chew on. Our Zuzu (Greyhound) loved to chew on anything made of wood when she was that age. Never realized how many things in our house were made of wood until she came along! We used lots of baby gates and ex-pens to limit her options until we got past that stage. Sometimes we need to find ways to make the toys and bones more interesting. We find rotating out toys and bones helps create more novelty for them. Put away or out of reach as much as you can. There is also probably an element of boredom, so the more constructive activities you can give her the better. Does she have any interactive food puzzle toys you can put food in? Find toys that will engage her more. Set up some training sessions to get her using her brain. Do you walk her daily? Getting out for more walks can help too. I would not recommend a muzzle when alone at this stage. If you are going to use a muzzle, it would have to be a BASKET muzzle so she can still breathe normally and drink water. But if you’re going to use one, you would need to acclimate and work on using it with you around first. Some dogs can get those muzzles off pretty easily once they figure out how. Hope that helps!
Hi, I have a 3yr old Bernese mountain dog. She is constantly chewing socks. I have 3 boys so I am constantly picking up and make sure she can’t get anything. She even manages some way of eating baby wipes. I don’t know how I make sure everything is up. Yesterday she tried to get food of the counter while everyone was out of the room. I came back said leave it she did. But she is always floor surfing and looking for something to eat. She eats what my vet recommend but I am worried she is going to eat something and not be able to pass it. I can’t leave her out when I am not home. I put her in my sun room while I ran to the store and came back she tore up my carpet.
Natasha, that sounds like a challenge! Most dogs have outgrown these types of behaviors by this age, but not all. Has your dog been checked for any gastrointestinal issues? Sometimes a consult with a board certified veterinary behaviorist can be helpful if there are any gastrointestinal or other medical issues contributing to this behavior. If there is not a board certified vet behaviorist nearby, they will often consult directly with your own vet to help sort through issues. Also, have you done any training with your dog? You might also try teaching a very solid leave it as well as giving the dog some additional mental stimulation (training new things, using food puzzle toys, etc.) Good luck!
I have a almost 3yr old Greater Swiss who is constantly eating socks too! I was just outside cleaning up her waste after being sick for a week. I’m not exaggerating when I say there was way over 10 socks belonging to my 9 and 6 month old. I don’t even know when she has the opportunity to grab these without me noticing. She never was a sock eater until recently.
Hi Kellie, yikes 10 socks is dangerous! Thank goodness that did not result in an emergency surgery at your vet. I would see if you can figure out what has caused the change in behavior if this is new. A trip to the vet for a thorough check up might be a good place to start. From there, finding a qualified positive reinforcement based trainer near you to help change that behavior might be money well spent so there is not “next time”! Good luck.
I have a 2 year old pitbull. He has major issues with this as he actually had to get surgery from swallowing a small plastic ball that the neighbors threw into our yard. This morning he just threw up three squeeker toys even though we don’t have any dog or cat toys in the house anymore due to his first surgery so I am unsure where he got them. He had his surgery a month ago so this worries me a lot. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? The struggle I face is we talked to a dog trainer and did an evaluation and he most likely has dog autism so training drop it and leave it are near impossible with him and I can’t afford a professional trainer at the moment. I am unsure what other options I have as this is critical to him not hurting himself.
Hi Kasey, that is definitely dangerous! Training should definitely help but can take some time to be reliable. In the meantime, some people do acclimate their dogs to a basket muzzle (you might see a recent response I made to someone else on that topic) to help prevent swallowing inappropriate objects. While it is not a long term solution, it can help prevent problems in the short term. If/when you can afford it, I would highly recommend consulting with a veterinary behaviorist (dog trainers are not qualified to diagnose things like autism) and see if there are any potential medical issues that might be contributing to the issue. For the short term, possibly acclimating to a basket muzzle and lots of close supervision might be your best options. Good luck!
Thank you both for your help and expertise!
I have a 6yo and 10moth old pit bulls. My oldest never exhibited pica but my daughter in law had one that didi. So I was always worried that it may happen. Sure enough my puppy has. My question is do you recommend to muzzle the pup in my. absence?
Hi Mary, while we do not recommend a muzzle as a sole solution to pica, it sometimes can be useful as a management tool while we are working to hopefully resolve the issue. However, we do recommend if you do use a muzzle to work on acclimating your dog to it first before leaving them alone with it on. Most dogs take a bit of work to get comfortable with it so they are not fighting it. If they do manage to get it off (which some certainly do!) while you are not there, then it obviously loses it’s usefulness and becomes much harder to keep it on them in the future. But it certainly can be useful if it temporarily helps keep them from eating something dangerous when you are not there.
I have a one year old Bull Dog. He is the dog from hell but love him to pieces. He eats anything that he can find that is non food he ate a rope rags etc. He just swallows it down as fast as he can. I make sure there is nothing around that he can eat but he seems to find it. He was very sick because of an object he ingested but thank goodness it came out. The other day he swallowed a pot holder saw him I tried to get it but it was to late. I called my sons girlfriend who knows a lot about dogs. She made something to make him throw it up thank god because I can not afford a vet bill for a blockage. I am beside myself I really don’t want to see my pup do harm to himself. Please help.
Hi Marie, that sounds very dangerous! The first step, of course, is to make sure as much as possible is out of reach so he can’t get it. Have you done any training yet with him? Most importantly, learning a solid Drop It (whatever you have, spit it out) and a solid Leave It (don’t pick it up in the first place!) will be essential for him. But if you have not done so yet, the next thing I would do if I were you is get in to the vet for a thorough exam to see if there is a medical issue going on that is causing or contributing to some of this. Are there some gastrointestinal issues, for example, that might be causing him to eat things he should not? OR is it a learned behavior from puppyhood? Some puppies get so used to people always taking things away from them that they start to develop a strong resource guarding tendency – and the ultimate in guarding is to swallow it because then no one can take it away! My best advice is to confer with your vet first and then hire a good positive reinforcement based trainer who can help you get started on learning to drop and leave things reliably. Best of luck to you!
I have a 1 yr.old female golden (full breed) retriever chewing every sock it can find what do I do…also have caught her a few times with thumb tacs…she is the most loveable and loyal dog in the world…what can I do…
Hi Jean, one year old Goldens might look grown up but their brains are still developing so they act like the teenagers they are. Which means they don’t always make good decisions! To resolve this issue, you will need to do two things: (1) manage her environment really well so she does not get opportunities to chew on socks; and (2) train a really rock solid “Leave it”! Chewing socks can be bothersome but if she swallows parts of them, it can be downright dangerous and potentially life-threatening. Our goal is to make sure she does not get opportunities until she learns to make that choice herself. Good luck!
I have an almost 2 year old American Bulldog. He is on his 6th month of having free roam of the house. Starting about a month ago he’s gone from just carrying dirty laundry and trash items around (which we would reprimand him for by telling him no and taking the items away) to either chewing items to pieces or even swallowing them whole! Still haven’t caught him in the act but rather noticed underwear missing or he’s puked up the items fully intact. We have now being closing bathroom and closet doors and making sure no items are left out. He has no interest in any of our other items unless it’s our dirty laundry and trash, and his toys, but I’m not even sure what could have caused this behavior.
Hi Katie, sometimes we will never know what triggered a new behavior to start. And regardless of WHY it started, we now have it and need to change it! The first step is definitely removing access to those items as you have already done. Next is working on training a really solid LEAVE IT so he learns to ignore those items no matter what. And yes, dogs can learn a LEAVE IT with items even when you are not there. When Romeo and Zuzu were both puppies, their favorite off limits items was the toilet paper roll in the bathroom. They didn’t eat it but loved to shred the entire roll all over the living room. We started by removing access and then started setting up training sessions and practicing leave it and then learning to entirely ignore it without me having to remind them. Takes some practice but worth the time spent. The other thing I would consider is that he might just be bored and that’s one way of him expressing his boredom. Does he only do it when you are not around? You might set up some appropriate games (scavenger hunts for treats) or food puzzle toys with food or treats or other things for him to do on his own that help redirect his energy and focus elsewhere. Good luck!
I have a 7 month old Great Dane and she has a billion toys and we try to keep her well excersized. But WHENEVER we leave we have to close every door to every room and we cannot leave even a piece of paper out because as soon as we get back what ever was left out is torn to shreds and half eaten. The other day we left and didn’t close the bedroom door as much as we thought and she got in there and got a book, 3 pairs of my shoes, a pair of my husband’s socks and who knows what else. I’m so tired of having to clear everything completely up and out of the way so she doesn’t chew up and eat everything but she isn’t getting that she cannot do that and it’s hard to teach her because she only does it when we’re gone. She also knows she isn’t supposed to because as soon as we get home she lays on the floor and feels extremely guilty until we eventually come over and let her (after scolding her and telling her no). My husband keeps telling me she’ll grow out of it but I don’t feel like anything has changed and I can’t stand it anymore. Especially when she’s eaten something she shouldn’t like a sock and then barfs it up whole, she’s going to kill herself! We also have a new baby on the way that will be here in a couple of months and I definitely can’t have her chewing on all his stuff! I love her too much to get rid of her but something HAS to change. PLEASE HELP ME!!
Hi McKaye, first keep in mind that your 7 month old Great Dane is a teenager! Adolescence can be tough, which is exactly why I wrote my book and titled it Juvenile Delinquent Dogs! At that age, my dogs were never given free run of the house while we were gone. They simply were not mature enough to handle that much freedom. At that age, we really have to limit their opportunities until they are able to make better choices. Whether that is using an appropriately-sized crate or penning in a laundry room or other area that is safe so nothing gets destroyed and our dogs are kept safe. She will grow out of this stage of development, but you also need to make sure she is not getting too many opportunities to develop bad habits during this stage because those habits can stick with them into adulthood. I would recommend picking up a copy of my book and/or finding a positive reinforcement based professional behavior consultant to help you get your Dane on the right track. She absolutely can be a great dog with some help and guidance!
I have my little terrier in the vets right now getting a ultrasound to see if the blockage can be removed without surgery..He eats and swallows all kind of fabric..they suggest putting him a cage at nite since he eats my sheets, comforter and anything else..that sounds great but what about the time I go somewhere and or even in the house when he chews on edges of rugs.blankets on my couch etc. It”s hard to watch them 24/7. This is a very expensive procedure..probably going to hit $7,000. if they do surgery. crossing fingers. I really believe they lack something in their diet. I even went and got another shelter dog to play with and they do..24/7, and I thought I saw the new guy chewing the other day..grrr.
Hope my dog doesn’t come out aggressive that’s not him..I just feel for him the pain he was in.
We hope your little terrier is ok. Best wishes to you.
I had a Gordon Setter for ten years. She was a lovely animal. Fun. Just the best dog I ever had. But she ate rags and socks and towels. I never once caught her doing it, though. She had to have three surgeries to remove blockages. There is no such thing as “enough of a walk” for a Gordon. I would take her on a three-mile walk and she’d run around the garage 20 times when we got home. Anyway, I never figured out why she did this. She ended up passing away from a blockage. I feel horrible, I feel I failed her, and I do not want to get another dog until I get some answers and direction. All I know is that she got into stuff, but neither my wife nor I ever caught her doing it. Help! I would get another Gordon in a heartbeat if I was better equipped.
Jim, so sorry to hear about your Gordon Setter. In our puppy training, we work hard to get puppies off to the right start so these bad habits never develop. We focus on strong management to prevent problems while we train a very strong Drop It and Leave It. Some dogs take a lot more work at this than others, that is for certain. Best of luck to you in the future. We hope that you never go through that again.
We just lost our one year old Gordon Setter, Boone to a blockage as well. Second one in under 5months. We are completely devastated. Boone would eat anything and everything in site. He never showed any signs of growing out of his pica disease. He was the sweetest dog… we feel terrible as well. So scared to get another dog/Gordon..
I am so sorry to hear that, Jamie. That is tough to go through. Thank you for sharing.
Hi My 2 year old Chocolate Lab also eats socks and is on a good quality food thats not cheap! He moved onto eating a pair of boxer shorts last year and had to have them removed from his intestines, he was lucky to,since then we try and keep him out of certain rooms that might have a stray sock in as I have children who don’t always pick there clothes up but when im at work I cant keep my eye on him and I don’t think he could take another operation as the last time it changed him mentally, he is more aggressive to strangers since he was at the vets for the week, I have to book in to see the lady vet as he barks at the male vet and is scared to enter the examining room!
I have a pit bull named saucy, she has always been a “vacuum cleaner” eating everything she can find. It has gotten a little better after we moved and I had more control over what was laying around on the floor. But I had to take her to the vet to have pieces of her blanket surgically removed from her stomach. She eats “blue” brand dog food which is supposed to be very high in nutrients and I play / walk her all the time. I’ll work with her more on drop it and leave it hopefully that helps. Reading your article made a lot of sense and just wanted to share my story, thank you for the tips.
Thx for sharing, Eric! We get a good deal of traffic to this post and appreciate when people can share their experiences for the benefit of others. Thx for taking the time to post and hope you avoid any more ER visits with Saucy.
Hi, we adopted a Chesapeake Bay Retriever about 9 months ago. He was about 16 months old when we got him. We’ve also had 3 other Chessies, so we’re familiar with the breed. Sadly, this pup has many issues. He has demonstrated the sock eating behavior and becomes aggressive when we try to get it back, so we reward with a more valuable treat. He’s been to the vet 10x in less than a year for eating things and just had to have surgery to remove a sock. His agressive behavior seems to be both resource guarding and is also displayed at unexpected times- like leaning over to pet him or when we bend down to get something on the floor and sometimes when we go to put his collar on. He has also gotten aggressive with our other dog and has bitten me. We have him on a high quality diet (Froms) and he gets lots of exercise. He’s been to an herbalist, tested at the vet for health issues and nothing has changed. In fact, he gets extremely aggressive at the vet and they can’t get near him. We are the people who do anything for our animals, but I’m at my wits end. Do you have any advice?
Hi Robyn,
It sounds like you have some serious issues going on there! While I could give you some general advice, with the seriousness of these issues, my best advice is to find a professional who really knows what they are doing to sit down with you and go over things in much better detail than I can here. I would highly recommend a consultation with a board certified veterinary behaviorist who can really take a deeper look at both the health side and the behavioral side of things to help put together a complete plan of approach. While some of it definitely sounds like behavior issues that will need to be worked on, there certainly could be some health issues that need to be addressed that your regular vet just does not have the expertise find. I am not sure where you are located, but in my area we have a fantastic vet behaviorist named E’lise Christensen who I have worked with several times with shared clients. You can find a list here: https://www.dacvb.org/about/member-directory/ Good luck to you!
My dog is like a vaccum cleaner he has an open dish and eats purina dog chow. He will just swallow socks whole and later vomit them back up. Its not out of boredom he always goes on walks and i play with him all the time. He isnt possesive, i can tell him no and to drop it and he will stop. We have bones and toys that are safe for him to have but he will constently sniff the floor to find anything he can grab and swallow i can afford a vet bill for a blockage and i dont want to wake up on day to my lifless dog can someone help. Ive never seen a dog do this before.
Jaz:
Yikes…that is scary. I can understand your need to solve this issue. There could be two issues that both Sue and I see: (1) The immediate one is to check his diet and make sure he is on high quality food. He might be missing key nutrients and his need to swallow non-food items might be linked to that. Our resource guide that we wrote can help dog owners with making healthy food choices: https://thelightofdog.com/dog-food-products/how-to-choose-food-for-my-dog/ (2) It could be a training issue and you might want to find a positive reinforcement trainer that can work on leave it. I hope these help. Thx for asking!